Wednesday, May 4, 2011

Ansonaco from Giglio

Wine tasting to me is like meeting new friends and I am thrilled when I get to meet someone I've never met before (= grape variety I've never tasted) from somewhere I've never heard of. Such was the case with Ansonaco from Giglio.

Ansonaco is a white grape variety grown in Tuscany's coastline, and it is also known as Inzolia in Sicily (which I have tasted in the past). What surprised me was how they can be so different in their personality. Ansonaco I tasted came from Giglio, a secluded island off of Tuscan coast. Once an important naval and trading base for Romans, the island of Giglio flourished with wine growing and mineral mining in the 19th century. As it became known for a vacation getaway for Romans and Florentines, Ansonaco grape became on the verge of extinction.

The vines here are planted on steep terraces, which makes vineyard work extremely difficult and many peasants just gave up of tending vines. Then former Math teacher turned into winegrower, restaurateur, and cook, Francesco Carfagna along with a handful of like-minded came to rescue the tradition of Ansonaco in Giglio. And the result was in my glass.

The wine was little hazy and golden-straw in color. Unique combination of fruit (apricot, canned yellow peach, baked pear, cantaloupe melon, tangerine peel) was seamlessly integrated with mineral rich sea breeze and crushed oyster shells, along with hints of fragrant herbs such as thyme, marjoram, and rosemary. On the palate, it expressed quite texture, which reminded me of chewing apple with interesting sweet nutty notes of hazelnut with moderate acidity and alcohol. Its concentration of fruit and mineral quality made me think of wines of Carso from Friuli as well as the brininess of this wine reminisced fine Fino/Manzanilla Sherry.

My new Italian friend, Ansonaco from Giglio is bit wild but with full of charm and personality. And thank you Francesco and others for your determination and hard-work, without you, I probably never get to meet Ansonaco.

P.S. I would also like to thank Jeannie from Adonna Imports for letting me taste this delightful wine.